A recent post I shared with you was about my experience of meeting the various Trebbiano Spoletino trees. To recap: we produced an episode where Giampaolo and Emiliano did a vertical tasting of 10 vintages of Adarmando, our white wine made from 100% Trebbiano Spoletino. Though we are still holding out on posting the full episode, we did release a short trailer.
In case you are unfamiliar with why Adarmando is so special to us, it is because the Trebbiano Spoletino was something of a dream for Giampaolo. He wanted to pave the way for other winemakers in a way that would revolutionize Umbrian wine. We like to think his passion and innovation have done this for all of his wines, but with Adarmando this was truly the case.
These vines are sometimes 100 years old, sometimes more. Their shape is unique because of their age, but also because they are married to “bianchelle” (acero campestre). In 2003, Giampaolo started research with the University of Florence to analyze RNA of the plants and discover what exactly made them so incredible. Since then, we’ve been growing the results of this study in an experimental vineyard using Guyot methods. These grapes are not used for Adarmando, however.
It was after the research began in 2006 that Giampaolo finalized the protocol for Adarmando and realized it was not a normal white wine. It must be aged. Of course, the taste and the quality is still enjoyable when young, but this is something to keep hidden away in your cellar for 20 years. But it’s a white wine, so people were concerned when Tabarrini held off on releasing it.
Then the 2007 Adarmando was awarded the Tre Bicchieri by Gambero Rosso and Trebbiano Spoletino was all anyone could talk about in Umbria. Gradually, more winemakers started to bring back this species of grapes that was dying out. They realized its potential and started to pay homage to this testament of time. Giampaolo saved the Trebbiano Spoletino and brought it back to life. It only took a man, a dream, and a wine.
un uomo, un sogno, il vino – Adarmando